With so many files to keep track of, it's very important to stay organized when doing astrophotography! You should also know how to work with FITs files, which are the image format of dedicated astro cameras.

You must use the correct bit-depth throughout the workflow, otherwise your images will have noticeable quality loss and compression. It's best to start with 32Bit files, then move to 16Bits after the photo has been stretched.

If your monitor is not properly calibrated, then your photos will not look the same on other people's displays. You will also have a difficult time achieving consistent edits.

The final step is to copy over the files from the ASIAir to the computer. This should be as easy as connecting a cable, then dragging and dropping the files. However, it can be much more difficult.

The "All Sky Polar Align" is an optional feature in the ASIAir that will allow you to polar align without seeing Polaris. If you've got trees, houses, or mountains blocking the view, then the Alternate Polar Alignment should overcome this problem

The Meridian Flip will automatically move your telescope and camera to prevent any collisions when the target crosses the local Meridian. This flip could be dangerous though, so watch things closely!

Dither, when enabled in the ASIAir, can dramatically improve the quality of the final stacked image. It should eliminate walking noise, color mottle, hot pixels, etc... The more photos you capture, the better the dither will work!

Flat Darks are basically Dark Frames for your Flat Frames. They will help to calibrate the Flats so they don't introduce any artifacts

There are many different ways to capture Flat Frames, but the easiest and fastest are Twilight Flats. These should be taken about 20 - 30 minutes before dark, on the same night as your light frames

Dark Frames should have the same settings and sensor temperature as the light frames. They will help to eliminate amp glow and hot pixels, if taken properly.